Dog Training - Dealing With Jumping

Most dogs will display a tendency to jump on people at times. How often will vary with breed and by individual. One theory suggests that dogs are trying to get close to the person's face - not to attack, but to interact. Other dogs, especially of the same breed, have faces close to their level and the dog will use its nose and eyes to explore.

So, one way to deal with jumping is to give them no need to reach. Kneel down and interact with the dog at its level. Let it explore your face in a safe way, while keeping an eye out for excessive assertiveness. Very rarely will a dog bite its owner this way, especially if the human has taken the trouble to become the 'alpha' (leader of the pack).

Naturally, if you've only recently acquired an older dog, perhaps from a shelter, you should take proper precaution when using this technique. Put a collar on the dog and keep a thumb inserted under it behind the dog's neck. Be prepared to jerk sideways, if necessary.

Sideways jerking is to be preferred to a sharp pull backwards, when possible. Dogs' neck muscles are very strong, but throats can be too easily bruised. The movement is to protect the owner and inform the dog, not to punish.

Off-leash training to discourage jumping is also possible. Wear a pair of well-protecting pants and have the dog stand in front of you. Training a 'sit' is, of course, a very good defense against jumping. But they can't sit all the time. Jumping usually follows standing or running. So, start the exercise with the dog standing.

Watch for the body tension that precedes jumping and when you see them about to jump order a 'sit'. If the dog jumps anyway, lift your leg slightly and bump the dog's chest with your knee or thigh. At the same time, thrust a palm near the dog's face away from you. Issue a sharp command: 'off!'. ('Down' is a separate behavior, requiring a different word.)

The idea isn't to slam the dog in the chest, nor to push a hand into its face. The raised knee helps to keep the dog off and puts it off balance. The hand in the face both obscures its vision and discourages a repeat jump.

If you have a partner you can work with, leash training may be useful in more stubborn cases. As the dog starts to leap, have the partner jerk sideways as you issue the 'off!' command. You should issue the command, not the partner. You need the dog to focus on and obey you.

In the absence of a partner, and when working outside, it may be possible to wrap a long leash around a tree or post. The difficulty is that the jerk will then usually be more back than to the side.

Positive reinforcement techniques can be used, too. Take a treat or a favorite toy in one hand. As the dog starts to jump, hold out the treat or toy above and slightly behind the dog's head. That distracts the dog and puts it slightly off balance. It also encourages a sit, just when the impulse was to jump.

Repetition and consistency are, as with any training, important when training 'off'. Be patient and firm. With time, most dogs will learn to suppress this natural behavior until and unless they receive permission to jump.

Is a Cocker Spaniel Right for You?

The Cocker Spaniel is such a pretty, graceful dog in the show ring that it is hard to imagine that this breed was developed to be a working dog. However, before Cocker Spaniels were bred for their long, flowing coats, these bouncy little dogs were developed to be able to work tirelessly alongside hunters and sportsmen. Today, the spunky little Cocker has few of its former hunting instincts. Instead, this breed has become popular as a family pet.

Cocker Spaniels are small dogs and weigh in at twenty four to twenty nine pounds. They stand fifteen to sixteen inches tall. This breed is known for its feathery, long leg hair, its floppy ears, and its soulful dark eyes. The Cocker comes in a wide range of colors, including black, cream, roan, black and white, orange and white, tan tricolor, and black with tan points.

For several years, Cocker Spaniels were so popular that some breeders allowed dogs with bad temperaments to reproduce. The resulting puppies with bad traits were bred back to other dogs with bad traits. Suddenly, the Cocker Spaniel breed was filled with dogs who suffered from inexplicable episodes of rage or were extremely high strung. Luckily, breed enthusiasts stepped in to rescue the breed and have been breeding dogs with sound temperaments. Now, most Cockers are once again wonderful family pets and are good with children and other animals. To be sure you buy a Cocker Spaniel with a good temperament, only buy from a reputable breeder and make certain you meet both parents.

Since Cocker Spaniels are not high energy dogs, they do well in apartments, town houses, or single homes. However, your dog will still need to be exercised daily. If you have a child who likes to throw balls or sticks, your Cocker will be blissfully happy, since these dogs love to play fetch.

Although Cocker Spaniels are small enough to be easily controlled when they are full grown, it is still a good idea to train your dog. Puppy classes will help him learn to get along well with other dogs and people. These classes are also a good idea for new dog owners, since owners are actually learning alongside their dogs.

The Cocker Spaniel's coat requires a fair amount of grooming, especially if you want your dog to have that beautiful feathery leg hair. If you do not keep your Cocker's coat clipped short, be prepared to brush his coat at least three times a week. Keep a close eye on your dog's ears, since those hairy floppy ears don't always get enough air circulating to keep them healthy.

Cocker Spaniels have a bit of a reputation for being gluttonous. When feeding your dog, be sure you use proper portion sizes. You may also want to consider avoiding the use of treats as training rewards. The charming Cocker can suffer from other health problems besides obesity. They include hip dysplasia, bad knees, epilepsy, eye problems, heart disease and allergy problems.

If you want a small family dog with a playful spirit, then a Cocker Spaniel just may be the right breed for you.

Dog Training - Crate Training Pros and Cons

Debate continues unabated about whether or not crate training dogs is healthy or harmful.

'Crating' involves placing a pet in a cage, usually plastic or metal of roughly the size of the dog, for a period of time during the day or night.

Proponents argue that crating gives the dog a sense of 'property', a place it can call its own. In this little home within the home, the dog feels safe surrounded by familiar smells and objects. Here, the dog can retreat from fearful noises or boisterous children.

Those who favor crate training assert that potty training is much easier when combined with use of a crate. Dogs, they say, will naturally avoid soiling their 'den' and 'hold it' until they're released to go outside.

Opponents counter that locking the dog into a cage barely large enough to turn around in suppresses its natural desire to roam. It removes the dog's ability to explore its environment at will and to soak up stimulating sights and smells.

Those against the use of crates point to the frequent instances when puppies will play in their own waste and simply soil themselves worse. Locking the dog away, they say, is more for the convenience of the owner than the well-being of the dog.

As with any debate of this kind, there are no doubt good and bad points on both sides. Objective studies on the issue are sparse and equally divided. Provided certain 'rules' are observed, there's probably no harm, and possibly some good, to be had from crate training.

Even proponents recognize that excessive lengths of forced crate time is bad for the dog. Any dog locked up in a small space is not getting needed exercise and may be restrained from eliminating for longer than is healthy. So, keep the crate time to no more than two hours maximum.

Opponents worry that crated dogs can injure themselves through a natural desire to escape or rowdiness inside the cage. Make sure that the collar won't snag. Check to ensure there are no sharp edges on the crate, and that construction is strong enough to withstand the dog's normal jostling and pushing on the walls. Above all, make sure it can't tip over.

Advocates assert that crate trained animals will do better on car, train or plane trips. They're used to the confinement and they have a familiar-smelling environment with them during a time of stress. For owners who have to take their pets on long trips, there may be some value in this view.

Critics suggest that (except in cases of permanent re-location) it's best to leave pets at home. Apart from short trips to the grocery store or vet or to a neighbor's house, animals fare better in familiar territory. But, if you must take them, be especially careful to do so in a well-constructed crate. Make sure no objects can fall into, not just out of, the cage.

Though the debate isn't likely to be settled anytime soon, exercising common sense is the best way to judge the actual net effect - good or bad - on your particular pet. Try leaving the door open after a few weeks of training and see whether they seek or avoid the crate. Let the dog weigh in on the question.